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                        66-77 Front End                                                66-77 Front Fender

Front End Features:  - Heavy Duty version - does not come with a hinge kit or installation hardware.  - Grey exterior gellcoat finish can be easily sanded and prepared for finishing.  - Smooth 90° roll into wheel well openings, generally extends in a full  ¾".  - Headlight blanks require opening to install light bowl and trim.  - The units do come with mold flashing - which must be fared in before preparing for paint.   - The interior finish is Fiberglass texture - coated in black lacquer - it comes without wheel wells.     Wheel wells cannot be completely attached to the front end as they will interfere with engine &     firewall component, when hinging.  - Light Weight Version - is intended for racing applications and does not come with a hinge kit or    installation hardware..      - These unit generally only weigh in at approx 30#  +/- .

Front End Installation Tips

Easy On  Fish Mouth Design.

A good idea a customer came up with - was to use fish mouth tubing - a large piece mounted to the frame rail and a somewhat smaller one glassed to the front end itself.  When sliding the front end on it not only self aligns it secure the front end and fasteners are only needed in the rear.

Tilting One Piece Front Ends  Most of the work to tilt a full fendered front end can be accomplished at the drawing table. First you will need a photo of the side of the vehicle. draw an outline of its' front end on tracing paper. Cut the outline drawing and lay it over the photo. With the use of a pin, determine where the hinge placement should be (The pin acting as the hinging point.) be sure that your paper model when tilting, does not have the fender hitting the tire or the grill hitting the ground.  To get more lift and clearance while tilting, a double hinge can be fabricated and used. For either double or single hinges, you must start by fiberglassing a 1 x 1 steel bar into the front end, just above and in front of the hinge point.

Make sure, before glassing the bar in that a pad is welded on the end to make it more stable.   For single hinge mechanism - weld or bolt an other plate coming off of the frame rail and drill the 1/2" hole in the same location.  With the use of a 1/2" bolt & fiber lock nut ,as your hinge, the front end should pivot properly.  Whatever you do TAKE YOUR TIME!   For a double hinge mechanism, weld an oval plate off of the bar in the front end (previously installed) angled down and behind the hinge point.  Cut an oval plate to bolt to the frame horn and add 2 stop bolts to limit the travel. Doing your best to make your assembly look like the animation to the right. It is best to use stainless steel bolts and cotter pin type lock nuts, for a secure installation...and again whatever you do TAKE YOUR TIME!

IMPORTANT - Please specify the type of racing that the unit will be used for, so we may build and reinforce your unit accordingly. Units manufactured for "Street Racing" have a heavier roving on all edges to reduce the chance of tearing (under to stress of impact) and usually weigh 10 - 15# more than a Drag Racing unit.  Units manufactured for "Sand Drag" or "Baja" style racing are built so as to be midway between the Street Drag and the Street Race units.

 66-77 Heavy Duty Inner View 
 - Rear Baffle & Inner liner must be cut open to
   provide cold air.
 - 90° edges come long - may need sanded  for a
   correct fit.