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71-77 Stock Hood  larger pic  Heavy Duty Features:  - 90 edges on both sides help to maintain fender    contours.  - Full perimeter inner frames - utilizes OEM hinge    & latch.  - Black lacquered fiberglass textured inner.  - Sandable gray gellcoated exterior finish.  - Order Anytime, Click listing at top of page.  - Coremat® reinforced skin aids in reduction of     print-thru.     Add a new scoop w / purchase.	71-77 2" Cowl Induction Hood  larger pic  Heavy Duty Features:  - Styled after the original Z-28 design. (Only 1"    actual clearance.)  - 90 edges on both sides help to maintain fender    contours.  - Full perimeter inner frames - utilizes OEM hinge    & latch.  - Black lacquered fiberglass textured inner.  - Sandable gray gellcoated exterior finish.  - Order Anytime, Click listing at top of page.  - Coremat® reinforced skin.     Add a ram air isolator plate.
71-77 5" Cowl Induction Hood   Race Weight Features:  - Styled after the original Z-28 design. (Only 4"    actual clearance.)  - 90 edges on both sides help to maintain fender    contours.  - Full perimeter inner bracing.  - Black lacquered fiberglass textured inner.  - Sandable gray gellcoated exterior finish.  - Order Anytime, Click listing at top of page.  - Reinforced skin.     Add a ram air isolator plate.
71-77 6.5" Aero Hood   Race Weight Features:  - Designed w/Pro-Stock style scoop.  - Full perimeter bracing & rear baffle installed.  - Black lacquered fiberglass textured inner.  - Sandable gray gellcoated exterior finish.     Add a ram air isolator plate.  - Reinforced skin. - Scoop comes closed. (Size 33"x6.5"x18") - Edges require sanding for desired fit. - One piece construction - Yes, it comes out of     the mold this way!    Installed Photos
71-73  Front End - No Hood      Installed Photos                  71-73   One Piece Front End    Front End Features:  - Heavy Duty version - does not come with a hinge kit or installation hardware.  - Grey exterior gellcoat finish can be easily sanded and prepared for finishing.  - Smooth 90° roll into wheel well openings, generally extends in a full  ¾".  - Headlight blanks require opening to install light bowl and trim.  - The units do come with mold flashing - which must be fared in before preparing for paint.   - The interior finish is Fiberglass texture - coated in black lacquer - it comes without wheel wells.     Wheel wells cannot be completely attached to the front end as they will interfere with engine &     firewall component, when hinging.  - Order Anytime, Click listing at top of page.  - Light Weight Version - is intended for racing applications and does not come with a hinge kit or    installation hardware..      - These unit generally only weigh in at approx 30#  +/- .    - Pro-Package Includes: Pro Front end, Choice of hood, 2 Doors & Choice of trunk. Please e-mail us after placing your order. Reference your order number and specify your choice of hood and trunk by part number. Race weight parts only. Front End Installation Tips  Easy On  Fish Mouth Design.  A good idea a customer came up with - was to use fish mouth tubing - a large piece mounted to the frame rail and a somewhat smaller one glassed to the front end itself.  When sliding the front end on it not only self aligns it secure the front end and fasteners are only needed in the rear.  Tilting One Piece Front Ends  Most of the work to tilt a full fendered front end can be accomplished at the drawing table. First you will need a photo of the side of the vehicle. draw an outline of its' front end on tracing paper. Cut the outline drawing and lay it over the photo. With the use of a pin, determine where the hinge placement should be (The pin acting as the hinging point.) be sure that your paper model when tilting, does not have the fender hitting the tire or the grill hitting the ground.  To get more lift and clearance while tilting, a double hinge can be fabricated and used. For either double or single hinges, you must start by fiberglassing a 1 x 1 steel bar into the front end, just above and in front of the hinge point.   Make sure, before glassing the bar in that a pad is welded on the end to make it more stable.   For single hinge mechanism - weld or bolt an other plate coming off of the frame rail and drill the 1/2" hole in the same location.  With the use of a 1/2" bolt & fiber lock nut ,as your hinge, the front end should pivot properly.  Whatever you do TAKE YOUR TIME!   For a double hinge mechanism, weld an oval plate off of the bar in the front end (previously installed) angled down and behind the hinge point.  Cut an oval plate to bolt to the frame horn and add 2 stop bolts to limit the travel. Doing your best to make your assembly look like the animation to the right. It is best to use stainless steel bolts and cotter pin type lock nuts, for a secure installation...and again whatever you do TAKE YOUR TIME!  IMPORTANT - Please specify the type of racing that the unit will be used for, so we may build and reinforce your unit accordingly. Units manufactured for "Street Racing" have a heavier roving on all edges to reduce the chance of tearing (under to stress of impact) and usually weigh 10 - 15# more than a Drag Racing unit.  Units manufactured for "Sand Drag" or "Baja" style racing are built so as to be midway between the Street Drag and the Street Race units.
71-77 Hatch   Race Weight Features:  - Full perimeter bracing.  - Black lacquered fiberglass textured inner.  - Sandable gray gellcoated exterior finish.  - Order Anytime, Click listing at top of page.  - Reinforced skin aids in reduction of print-thru.	71-77 Kamback Hatchck Hatch   Race Weight Features:  - Full perimeter bracing.  - Black lacquered fiberglass textured inner.  - Sandable gray gellcoated exterior finish.  - Order Anytime, Click listing at top of page.  - Reinforced skin aids in reduction of print-thru.
71-77 Kamback Body                Installed Photos    Installed Photos   Please Note: We are unable to ship body shells. They must be picked up in person to avoid freight damage.   When building a race vehicle you obviously want it as light as possible. So you cut out the floor pan -wheel wells & inner structure.....As far as the body all you are left with is an overweight, floppy shell held together with old factory spot welds and body lead. Our bodies are manufactured from extremely complex molds - which produce a rigid one piece unit. The roof, quarters & firewall are generally stiffened with the use of internal ribbing. In addition, your all new glass body can be made heavier or lighter (within reason) depending on your application.  Average body weight is only about 100#'s.  As far as body work, you need to scuff off the mold flashing - block sand - prime and paint.  The great part about owning a rigid glass body - is that you'll never have to worry about rust. Once you apply your paint scheme that's it - just wash and wax.   Installation is a snap!  Whether you are installing just the body or an entire package, the bodies attach at the rocker panels, tail pan, trunk jam, door jam, and front and rear window jams.  We also offer fiberglass wheel tubs, which can be glassed directly to your new body. (This is done by the installer).
71-77 Door   Race Weight Features:  - Smooth interior panel.  - Will accept original handle, hinge & latching    mechanism.  - All holes come closed & must be opened for    installation.   - Available in Light Weight design only.  - Strictly intended for Racing application only!  - Fully gellcoated inner & outer surface.  - Plastic windows & aluminum top post required    attached to inner door frame.
71-77 39" Wheel Well Extensions   Race Weight Features:  - Black lacquered fiberglass textured inner.  - Sandable gray gellcoated exterior finish.  - Order Anytime, Click listing at top of page.  - Reinforced skin aids in reduction of print-thru. - Outer Shell only.