COMPLETE BODY INSTALL

The vehicle we saved from the scrapper was a $250. wreck, with floor board holes big enough to put your foot through.  The front end was rusty & twisted, the bed floor was 3/4 missing.  We did however get a 350 small block - granny 4 speed - heavy duty suspension - posi track rear along with a good solid frame.   It was the ideal project truck for its' price and drive line.

Before beginning your replacement project - be sure to allow yourself enough down time for your vehicle.   Also realize that the following instruction are basic and worked for us.  All vehicles are different and you may need to alter some of our measurements to work for you.   The following installation guide is just that - a  guide - and your install may be more difficult depending on the style, age and condition of your vehicle.   Remember, you will probably want to do frame and/or suspension work while your chassis is exposed. 


Front End Removal
Disconnect and remove your battery - drain your coolant system - raise and remove the hood, leaving the windshield washer nozzles attached to it.  Disconnect front wiring harness from the headlights, turn signals, running lights, horn and washer bottle.   Set these on the motor or frame rails.  Remove the core support to frame rail bolts - remove the upper and lower rear fender attach bolts - also the one in each door jam.  Remove the bolts inside the rear of the wheel well that attach the wheel well to the cab.  At this point you should be able to lift off the front surround- core support - fenders - wheel wells as one piece.


Bed Removal
Disconnect the tail light and running light lenses and wiring - in addition to the tag light wiring - label these and set aside.  Unscrew the fuel filler neck and remove the 8 bed attaching bolts.  With at least 4 people - lift and remove the old bed.  Caution:  The bed can weigh up to 300#.
Cab Removal
Remove the doors - disconnect the steering column - clutch linkage - heater & A/C hoses - and wiring harness.  Remove the 4 cab mount bolts - disconnect the rake fluid lines, connected to the brake booster - disconnect the pedal assembly from the firewall and the emergency brake cable.  step on the pedal and place a clamp on the cable - release the pedal and unhook the cable. With needle nose pliers be sure to also unhook the retainer clip.  Pull the brake cable through the firewall.  Unhook your wiring block, oil pressure sender and tube,  Disconnect the bus bar unscrew your dash face and remove.
Unbolt and pull out the instrument cluster, while your doing this reach behind it and push on the retainer clip holding the speedo cable and it will come out of the cluster.  Pull this cable through the firewall then remove the transmission shifter cover and/or linkages.  Before lifting the old cab - you will need to measure from the body line to the frame (see Center Sideways photo above) both in the front end rear of the cab.   This is to make sure your new glass cab is aligned properly.  Also scribe a mark on your frame where the back of the cab lines up.  Making sure everything is disconnected - remove the cab.  (Caution: This piece is very,  VERY heavy,)

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