CHEVY TRUCK INSTALL CONTINUED. . . . .
 |
 |
 |
| Frame
Preparation For a drive line the stock posi rear and 4 speed granny were checked out and reoiled. The 350 motor was freshened with new pistons, crank, cam etc . . . Because of the increase of horsepower and fuel consumption we swapped out the fuel tank and went from 14 to 22 gallon. The frame was then wire wheeled and sealed. |
||
 |
 |
 |
| With the major weight reduction the body will sit higher - with this in mind the new shocks we installed were the 2" extended type. All the new parts such as the starter, pressure plate, water pump, alternator etc... were purchased new with lifetime warranties from our local parts house. (after all your cab should last forever - so why not the mechanical as well.) | ||
 |
 |
 |
| Steel Cab
Disassembly First remove the windshield. this can easily be done by remove the outer molding center strip which locks the windshield in place. Then gently push the windshield out through the front of the cab. Beware - Our cab was full of LIVE AMMO in the defrost ducts. Caution - you never know what you might find. Remove the windshield wiper arms, cowl seal, cowl ducts and door seals. To remove the dash pad - unscrew it at the bottom and it will pull right up. With a 3/8" socket - remove the wiper arms by unbolting where is attaches to the motor and remove the arm assembly. With a 5/16" socket remove the motor assembly and remove your heater and A/C box. Inside disconnect the brake pedal to booster pin and unbolt the booster assembly from the firewall. Next remove the glove box and its door - to get access to the heater box cables. Remove the cables and tag the location of each. Unbolt the box and remove it - unhook the wiring harness plug from the firewall along with the oil sender. Unbolt the accelerator pedal and remove. Remove the fuse block and inner steering column and base cover. Disconnect your clutch rod and automatic transmission linkage. Unbolt the dash sides (Note: 2 on each side) An cut the dash from the truck with a carbon wheel by cutting in the radius of the front lip just below the spot welds. Cut off the steering column brace - remove the entire dash to firewall support and pull the dash back to remove it and the harness assembly. Now you must remove the firewall booster brace by either drilling out the spot welds, or torching it from the firewall. Remove the interior floor vent panels and door hinges. We chose to burn out the original door hinge nut plate to use on the new cab. These nut plates make hanging the new door much easier. |
||
 |
 |
 |
| Body
Preassembly With a ruler or protractor, measure the width of the original cabs windshield and door seal lip. Transfer these dimensions to your new glass cab and with a hand grinder enlarge your openings to the original dimensions. Repeat the above procedure for the rear window opening. Next cut open the cowl vent holes with a die grinder. Also check the location of the wiper holes and open them. Drill open the door hinge and catch holes. For the firewall the 73-80 cab is prescribed for the brake booster bracket and trim about 3/4" from the cabs lower flange to install. Holding the bracket in place mark the other holes and open them as in the steel cab. Next with a piece of cardboard make a template of the original heater an fuse block holes. Cut the cardboard marks open and transfer these dimensions to your new glass cab. Cut open all of these areas while fitting the original components. |
||
You are on Page 2 of 7
Jump to:
Page 1 -
Disassembly
Page 4 - Dash & Radiator
Support Page 7 - Complete
Page 2 - Cab & Firewall
Page 5 - Door & Front End
Topless
Page 3 - Cab Installation
Page 6 - Front End & Bed
Project
© Copyright 1987-date
® U.S.Body Source inc., usbody.com, carhoods.com, gr8hoods.com, techhoods.com,
e-bodyparts.com
The text and images in the afore mentioned sites may not be reproduced for
commercial purposes without
express written permission from U.S.Body Source inc. 9009 South East C.R. 325
Hampton Florida 32044