Barnyard CJ Project - Install
Text Only Format
|Before beginning your tub
replacement project - be sure to allow yourself enough down time with the vehicle.
You must also realize that the following information is BASIC and worked well for the
installer - Your installation may vary in difficulty and you may want to alter some of the
measurements and work order for your project depending on the style- age & condition
of your vehicle. Your installation may be easier or more difficult / faster or
slower depending on your individual conditions.
At the beginning you will probably want to do a bit of frame and/or suspension work while the frame is exposed.
|Note: The easiest way to perform the ongoing parts swapping - is to line up your rolling chassis next to your new body tub. Okay, now round up about 4-6 friends - lift the old steel body off of its frame and block it up securely for further parts removal. Remove the dash and rear wiring harness, master cylinder, brake pedal assembly, defrost duct, heater box, battery tray, seats, seat belts and all other items. Again be sure to tag all nuts, bolts and screws - keeping them attached to their appropriate assemblies. You may have to remove your vapor canister bracket by drilling out the spot welds.|
Now your CJ is basically stripped. Cut 2 pieces of cardboard for the firewall templates. Fit the pieces to the left and right side of the old steel firewall and hold in place. From the inside of the old tub - mark all of the openings with a felt tip marker. Cut the indicated holes - open and transfer these marks onto your new tubs firewalls.
Allow yourself a few hours for the next step of your installation. A combination of drilling, sawing (with a saber saw) and the use of assorted hand files will help open the firewall holes. Remember your new tub is fiberglass - so before beginning be sure to wear proper safety equipment. At this point take your time drilling and be sure not to open any hole too large. Continually check your measurements and templates - and keep holes somewhat smaller than they need to be. Fit original parts into the new holes and enlarge for proper clearance - so you can make sure that there will be no additional trimming required after you've cleaned up.
Keeping your sanity in mind - your new USBS tub is manufactured with aluminum in the firewall (not steel) this makes opening some of the odder shaped holes easier along with keeping the rigidity you need in an important attach area. next, make a template, transfer and cut open the transmission hole, fuel filler, side marker, taillight, cowl panel and windshield defrost duct holes.
Check and double check your frames original welds, the wiring and hoses, while your body is off to avoid future problems. Make any necessary repairs or adjustment to these areas now while accessibility is available. Don't forget to check your U-joints, differential oils and vents, brakes, etc.... and retorque all bolts to ensure the safety of you and your passengers.
On the body, drill all the mount holes previously marked. Also drill a few drain holes at the lowest point of your bodies floor. Set the 4 previously cut body mounts in place and align your body. Measure the 6 attaching points for bolt length, being sure to use your original lower donut - we recommend getting a high tensile strength steel bolt along with OD washers and fiber lock nuts. Install your seat brackets by the outboard body mounts and bolt them securely in place. Install and tighten all of your body mounts securely and check them over the next year (and periodically after that) to ensure safety.
The body tub assembly is done in reveres order of the instructions with the following exceptions.
When installing your shiny new CJ Tub - we recommend all new stainless steel bolts, washers and fiber lock nuts. This stainless steel hardware along with your shiny new CJ tub should just about last forever. (Hell, they'll probably bury you in it!) Start by installing your battery tray, heater box & defrost duct . New holes may need to be drilled in the defrost duct to move it away from the firewall. Silicon the duct and screw it in place. Line up the dash - mark and drill all attaching holes to your Shiny new bodies dash flange, Note for the next step, remember , each body is different and our measurement were accurate for the body we worked with. Yours may vary. Install your pedal assembly by cutting 1/2" to 3/4" off of the bracket and elongate the dash mount bracket holes at least 1/2". This needs to be done because the new tubs firewall is much thicker than the original wafer thin steel. Then secure your pedal assembly to the firewall.
|Reinstall the windshield support nuts &
knobs. (Tip: the 2 windshield frame nuts can be installed as follows..... wax the threads
on your knobs and put a nut and washer behind the dash - and tighten the knob securely.
Then 2-part epoxy the nuts -for the knob- in place by covering them with a glob of epoxy.
When dry remove the knobs and the nuts should remain firmly in place.) :-o
Install your dash with your new stainless bolts and fiber lock
nuts. Note: the center dash bolt hole must be drilled through the defrost duct.
Place its nut inside the duct and tighten securely. Reinstall you fuse block,
fuel lines, heater hoses, seats, steering column, wiring, etc...etc....etc....
|Install your clutch linkage & everything
else that appears left over, loose or hanging around. Remember spare parts are not a
good thing!!!! Drill and install your hood and windshield frame hinges with new
stainless bolts, washers and fiber lock nuts. Then position your fenders & drill
a 5/8" hole in all fender mount locations. Slip in the supplied rubber and
brass well nuts and install and tighten your fenders. (they are now shock mounted.)
At this point there should not be very much left to do aside from basic block
sanding - paint - etc....etc....etc....oh yeah, your now on your own.
YOU ARE NOW THE PROUD OWNER OF A PERMANENTLY RUST FREE CLASSIC 4x4 THAT CAN PROVIDE YOU, YOUR FRIEND AND FAMILY WITH A LIFETIME OF SERVICE, BY SIMPLY MAINTAINING YOUR DRIVELINE AND SUSPENSION.
© Copyright 1987-date
® U.S.Body Source inc., usbody.com, carhoods.com, gr8hoods.com, techhoods.com, e-bodyparts.com
The text and images in the afore mentioned sites may not be reproduced for commercial purposes without
express written permission from U.S.Body Source inc. 9009 South East C.R. 325 Hampton Florida 32044